Tag 14-16, Ponteareas – Valenca – Cabo da Roca – Lissabon I

Zu den Fotos

Tag 14 (Sonntag), Ponteareas – Valença do Minho; 30km, 2 Autos

Natürlich standen wir erst nach Mittag auf. Die Mädels gingen noch schwimmen und bevor wir losfuhren, wollten wir noch Nudeln machen. Allerdings hat das Gas des Campingkochers leider nur dazu gereicht, das Wasser zum leichten Köcheln zu bringen. Also gab es stattdessen Gaspacho und Baguette mit Käse und Tomaten.

Die Mädels ließen mich dann bei einem Hotel raus, wo ich noch einige Couchsurfing-Anfragen für Lissabon absendete und machte mich Richtung Portugal auf. Ich kam aber nur bis Tui, der Spanischen Grenzstadt. Zu Fuß lief ich dann über die Valença-Brücke nach Portugal.  Dort hatte ich aber auch kein Glück, aber es war auch mittlerweile dunkel. Als ich dann meinen Platz verließ, um einen Standort für die Nacht zu suchen, fiel mir auf, dass genau gegenüber von wo ich getrampt hatte, eine Pilgerherberge war. Also bin ich hin und weil ich drinnen Stimmen hörte, klopfte ich an Tür. Mir wurde auch geöffnet und ich suchte mir dann ein freies Bett aus.

Tag 15, Valença – Mafra, Cabo da Roca; 510km, 4 Autos, keine lange Wartezeit

T15 Valenca-MafraAm nächsten Morgen ging ich wieder zu dem Platz von letzten Abend und es dauerte nicht lange, bis ein Auto hielt. Vielleicht lag das auch daran, dass ich das “Lisboa”-Schild gegen ein “Porto”-Schild ausgetauscht hatte. An der folgenden Raststätte aß ich dann Frühstück und wurde von einem Ingenieur aufgelesen, der dachte, ich sei ein Mädchen, dabei waren meine Haare gar nicht so lang….naja. He fuhr einen relativ neuen Audi A8, der eine Spurfahrassistenten hatte. Als ich fragte, ob er ihn ausprobieren konnte, drehte sich zwar das Lenkrad, aber hätte er nicht eingegriffen, dann wären wir in der Leitplanke gelandet. Mittags lud er mich zum Essen ein.
Als ich fast am Cabo da Roca, dem westlichsten Punkt Europas, war, hielt eine ältere Damen, Linda, an. Sie sprach Französisch und sie, weil, wie sie oft betonte, niemand zu Hause auf sie warten würde, fuhr mich zum Kapp und noch ein bisschen in der Gegend umher u.a. zur “Mar do Inferno”, einer Art Felskessel am Meer. Am Ende ließ sie mich sogar bei sich übernachten – im Krankenbett ihres verstorbenen Mannes.

Abgesehen von normalen Geschwindigkeitskontrolle, gibt es in Portugal Kameras auf den Ampel, die Geschwindigkeitsüberschreitungen registrieren und dann die Ampeln auf Rot schalten. Nette Idee, wie ich finde.

Tag 16, Mafra – Lisbon I; 55km, 1 Auto, einige Warteminuten

Bevor ich nach Lissabon aufbrach, zeigte mir Linda noch das gemütlich Surfer-Dorf Ericeira und brachte mich dann zur Autobahnauffahrt. Von dort kam ich zum Campo Grande, im Norden Lissabons. Ich hatte noch keine Antwort von Couchsurfing bekommen, also setzte ich mich in einen stylischen Park, las und aß vermutlich zu viel Schokolade bzw. Erdnüsse – aber dazu später mehr….

Am Nachmittag entschied ich genug gewartet zu haben und lief im Zickzack Richtung Zentrum. So bekam ich einen guten ersten Eindruck der Stadt.

Aber irgendwie fing mein Bauch an, weh zu tun und die Ho(s)tels, bei denen ich nach Räumen fragte, waren mir alle zu teuer. Also entschied ich mich, zum ca. 10km entfernten Campingplatz zu laufen, obwohl ich mich schwächer und schwächer fühlte. Auf dem Weg musste ich mehrmals Pausen einlegen. Mir war schon klar, wie das Ganze enden würde und dann kam ich auch an den Punkt, an dem mein Magen revolutionierte. Zum Glück war das in der Nähe von ein paar Büschen und sichtgeschützt und nicht mitten auf einer belebten Straße…..verdammte Billigerdnüsse.

Danach fühlte ich mich schon ein wenig besser und schleppte mich weiter. Bis zum Campingplatz kam ich aber nicht, sondern wählte einen Platz in einer Art Park neben der Autobahn, der aber auch von Blicken geschützt war. Es war mir aber auch vollkommen egal, baute einfach mein Zelt auf und hatte eine grauenhafte Nacht, in der ich alle drei Liter Wasser, die ich noch hatte, austrank.

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Tag 14


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Day 17-19, Lisbon/Lisboa

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Day 17, Lisbon II

At least I woke up and was clear in my mind. My mood instantly increased when I saw that I received a positive reply from Couchsurfing. We called and agreed on meeting in the evening. I left my backpack in a locker at the railway station and strolled around town a bit. But since I was not fully recovered I lay down in a park near Cais do Sodre and Rio Tejo. In the evening I met with O. ate some food and went to bed early.

Day 18, Lisbon III

Ok, I spent two days in Lisbon now, but didn’t do anything. I haven’t had any plans though, but it felt kind of wrong.

O. let me use her bicycle, so I rode to some view points, the EXPO 1998 area in the east and Belem in the west.
It seems typical in Lisbon that people approach you to offer “Hashish? Cocain?”. They don’t even bother running in front of you bike while you are riding.

In the end I searched for a restaurant that would serve snails (caracois) which were recommended to me. In one restaurant I was told they are served as a snack at noon. So I ate codfish instead which was really nice.

Day 19, Lisbon IV

Another day in Lisbon. This time I had to get around without bike. So at first I made a tour with the famous tram 28 which charges more than other trams because it’s the typical tourist line. I passed a wall with a nice graffiti, but was to slow to catch it on photo. So I searched for about 45 minutes till I found it. On the way I had the chance of other great pictures.

At noon I visited O. at her working place – a bar. Then I ordered the snail in the place next door. I paid 7,50€ and got a huge box of snails; more than a snack for one or even three persons. However I couldn’t finish all of them at once. Though I have to admit there were delicious. Hence I told O. I’d prepare a snail omelette in the evening. She sceptically agreed.

Before I went to the Botanical garden, that suddenly cuts you off from the rest of the city. Without the city’s noise it was like being in a different world, but a rather small world. After returning I met with O. at Marquês de Pombal, the central round-about of Lisbon. She had to arrange some things, showed me some interesting graffiti on the way before I took her bike to ride home and buy some food for the special dinner.

I can tell you, it is hard work to peel all the snail out of their house plus you need much time. But it was totally worth it. It was quite a dinner: I prepared tomatoes, zucchini and mixed them with eggs and the snails to create the snail omelette and a salad whereas O. made two kinds of humus and avocado crème…..exquisite.

It was also my last night in Lisbon. It is such a nice city. When you like Berlin, you definitely have to visit Lisbon – a smaller, hillier Berlin. And if you don’t like Berlin, maybe you start after having visited Lisbon.

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Day 17


Day 18


Day 19

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Day 20-22, Lisbon – Faro, Faro

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Day 20, Lisbon – Faro I; 300km, 2 cars, 9h travelling (5h waiting)

T20 Lisbon-FaroAs usual I got up at 8am and ate breakfast. Then I said good-bye to O. who gave me some ticket for the tram. I should go by tram for one long stops and the card should have given me a discount on the ticket.

When I arrived at the stop, however, I didn’t know how to get advantage of the ticket. That’s why I just didn’t buy a ticket. It was 2,85€ for one stop, so no. At 11am I finally arrived at a possible hitchhiking spot….but no one stopped. Therefore I walked to an alternative spot which was illegal as one the highway. And yes, I was lucky as in Zaragoza to just bump into a highway employee you told me to get lost.

Very upset I went back, wrote another sign with a closer destination than Faro and really after I don’t know how many additional hours a woman took me to the next service area having a McDonalds. There I met a girl and a boy from Lithuania who intended to hitchhike to Faro as well. So we took some drinks first, the girl Enrika, got hers sponsored for a spontaneous painting.

We had to wait again for a minimum of two hours, but then the car that stopped was at least going all the way to Faro…finally! He didn’t had much space in the trunk so we took our backpack on the legs again, but who cares we were going to Faro.

Faro was the second and last destination were I couchsurfed. A. and A., two nice and cool Polish Erasmus students studying in Wroclaw were doing their internship at an architect’s office. After I took a shower, we went to the supermarket, cooked something and walked inside the huge city with some port wine.

Day 21, Sunday, Faro II

After breakfast we all went to a local market where we met with the Latvian colleagues of A. and A. and their friends. We bought some fruits I’d never seen before and agreed on meeting in the afternoon to go by ferry to the beach, since between Faro and an Atlantic Ocean beach is a natural reserve park.

At 4pm we cruised through the park and enjoyed the fresh Atlantic. At 10pm after we all ate some dinner we met for some wine at the harbour again. We thought we could watch a local international/traditional dance festival but it was quite boring, so we went to take 18 shots of different kinds (regional, strawberry, kiwi and passion fruit) of Poncha instead, which was a better decision.

Day 22, Faro III

A and A. had to work again. They worked quite too hard. I made myself a chilled day. I slept longer, wrote some postcards and was happy to recognize that my boss didn’t had a problem if I came a week later, which I wanted to spend in Berlin.

Then I bought ingredients of potato pan cakes, so that the girls needn’t cook after a hard 12h working day and also the pan cakes taste quite good and would give my stomach some buffer for the next long hitchhiking stage to Granada via Tarifa and Gibraltar.

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Day 20


Day 21


Day 22

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Day 14-16, Ponteareas – Valenca – Cabo da Roca – Lisbon I

To the photos

Day 14, Ponteareas – Valença do Minho (Sunday); 30km, 2 cars

Of course we got up at around noon the next day. The girls went swimming and before we wanted to depart we wanted to make some pasta. But the water was just about to boil when the camping gas went empty, so we ate some Gaspacho and baguette with cheese and tomatoes.

The girls then left me at hotel where I sent some Couchsurfing request for Lisbon and continued towards Portugal. But I only got to Tui, the Spanish border town. But foot I continued over a bridge to Portugal. I didn’t have any luck there as well, maybe because already dark. Anyway when I left the spot to go to a possible place to pitch my tent I realised, that there was a pilgrim’s hostel just opposite of my hitchhiking spot. Although it was late, someone opened the door and I was able to sleep in a bed that night.

Day 15, Valença – Mafra via Cabo da Roca; 510km, 4 cars, not so much waiting time

T15 Valenca-MafraThe next morning I went to the spot again and it didn’t take much time, since the first car stopped. I also replaced my “Lisboa” sign with a “Porto” sign. At the service area I ate breakfast and was then picked up by an engineer who first thought I was a girl… He drove a brand new Audi A8. It had a lane departure warning system (so in theory it could keep the lane automatically). But when I showed me, we nearly crashed into the beam barrier. At noon he invited me for lunch.
When I was close to Cabo da Roca (the westernmost point of Europe), an old lady, Linda, stopped. She spoke French and, because nobody was waiting for her at home as she said, drove me around. In the end she even let me crash at her place.
Apart from regular speed radar controls, there are cameras on the traffic lights that register speeding and turn the lights to red. That’s a pretty nice concept, I guess.

Day 16, Mafra – Lisbon I; 55km, 1 car, some minutes waiting time

Before I went to Lisbon, Linda showed me the cosy surfer village of Ericeira and then brought me to the highway entrance. From there I got to Campo Grande, in the north of Lisbon. I haven’t had any reply from a CS host yet, so I sat down in the cool park, read and apparently ate too much chocolate and peanuts – but I’ll come to this later on.

In the early afternoon I decided I waited enough and walked zigzag towards the centre. So I got a good first impression of the city.

But somehow my stomach started to hurt and the hostels I asked for room had prices starting 20€ per night. So I decided to go to the 10km far away camping site although I felt weaker and weaker and made multiple stops on the way. I already had the feeling, but then I reached a point, where my stomach couldn’t reach it any more. I spare the details, but was “happy” to find a quite hidden place to let it happen….damn low quality but cheap peanuts.

I felt a little better and trailed myself further. I didn’t reach the camping site, but a place next to the highway that somehow part of a park but separated by some building. But I couldn’t care less in that situation, pitched my tent and had a horrible night and drank all 3 litres of my water.

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Day 14


Day 15


Day 16

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